Embroidery on Indian bridal wear | Zardozi work

 

Zardozi is a form of embroidery originally from Jaipur. It is done using golden encrusted wires and can be usually seen on North Indian bridal outfits as it is quite heavy. Traditionally it used to be made for the Mughal and Rajput nobility but is now associated with wedding outfits. Back in time, real gold and silver threads were used to weave but are now replaced by synthetic or tested zari. This is made by pressing melted metal through perforated steel sheets to form wires. These are then hammered to required thinness.
 This is a very elaborate form of embroidery and is passed down from generations. Zardozi can be categorized into four categories, namely- Dapka, Salma or Nakshi, Arri work and Badla work.
Dapka – This kind of work involves intricate detailing done with needle and attention is paid to every detail. First a thick cotton cord is stitched on the pattern to be embroidered. The zari thread is then looped on this using a stitching needle. The patterns usually consist of flowers, leaves or peacock motifs.
Salma or Nakshi – This form is not as elaborate as dapka and is also cheaper but is a must for wedding outfits as it shines much more than dapka. This embroidery starts from the exterior to the interior. First the outline of the motif is created using a prefabricated golden thread and then the motif is filled using circular metallic wire.
Arri Work- This is a very delicate form of embroidery done using a combination of coloured and golden thread. The thread is put on a pen like needle which is passed through the cloth giving it a chain stitch effect.
Badla Work – Plain wires are called badla and when woven around threads they are known as kasav. The embroidery done using this thread is known as badla work. This work is commonly seen on bridal outfits.
Zardozi work looks very elaborate and royal but it is always recommended to try out a zardozi outfit before buying it as it usually tends to be quite heavy due to the intricate work and also sometimes the metal threads can make your skin feel itchy. Stay tuned for more on embroidery used on Indian bridal wear from different regions in India.

Gharara | The Quintessential Indian Bridal Wear!

Dress like a Mughal princess on your big day. Yes, we are referring to a Gharara! It is one of the most elegant and traditional among Indian bridal wear, However; it has lost its glory over time. With changing trends, Bollywood has brought this undiscovered treasure back in to fashion by popularizing it recently.

 We are totally in love with this traditional outfit! Ghararas originated in Lucknow and were traditionally worn by north Indian muslim women. The outfit comprises of a mid-length tunic known as kurti and is paired with flared wide legged pants which are ruched at the knee. The outfit also has a dupatta to go with it. Worn by Nawabs and muslims, the outfit often reflected the status of the person wearing it in olden times.

 

The Gharara is the traditional outfit of a Pakistani bride. The pants of the Gharara are very dramatic and each leg is artfully crafted with more than 12 metres of fabric. Rich fabrics such as silks or brocades were traditionally used to design this elegant outfit. Though now days you may see variations in fabric as, georgette is also widely used because of its flowy texture.

 

 Wedding ghararas usually have ornate embroidery or zardosi detailing on them. Kareena Kapoor wore a lovely gharara in the movie Agent Vinod. Manish Malhotra designed this pink gharara with zari and sequin detailing. Katrina also wore a gharara in a qawwali song sequence in the movie Tees Maar Khan. Actress Kulraj Randhawa was seen wearing a modified veison of a gharara in a song sequence in her debut film Yamla Pagla Deewana. In the movie Kabhi Khushi Kabhi Gham, Kareena Kapoor was also wearing a modified version of a gharara.